[time-nuts] How to open solder-sealed OCXOs?

[J. Forster]

In general, I sandwich the solder wick between the joint and the iron. In
such a joint, the solder is mostly at the edge of the joint:


==============OO <------- Solder bead
      ===================

You don't really want to heat the thing so the solder flows into the joint
more deeply.

-John

====================


> One thing about soldering that many people don't know is
> that the solder is attracted to the hottest part of the joint.
>
> If you apply the soldering iron to the side of the can, the
> solder will be sucked down into the can, leaving a gap where
> the lid meets the can...
>
> So, if you want to solder a can shut neatly, apply the soldering
> iron so that it bridges the gap between the lid and the can, and
> apply the solder to the leading edge of the soldering iron just
> where the iron meets the can/lid.
>
> Also, avoid using eutectic solders (63/37) for any soldering job
> where you want to make a smooth fillet.  Eutectic solders have
> a single melt temperature, with no slush zone, and as such they
> are either fully melted, or not.  They don't thicken and build
> like non-eutectic solder (60/40)
>
> -Chuck Harris
>
> J. Forster wrote:
>> IMO, the easiest way (non-destructive too!0 is with a high wattage iron
>> or
>> 250 W gun, solder wick or a solder sucker, and an X-Acto knife.
>>
>> Start in the middle of one side. Heat the joint area and suck out as
>> much
>> of the solder from the joint area as you can. Slip the knife in the
>> joint
>> and pry gently after sucking to prevent any residual solder from
>> bridging
>> the gap. when that area has cooled, move left or right and work your way
>> around the can. Eventually, when almost all the solder is out, gentle
>> prying at the joint will pop the top off.
>>
>> Work slowly and patriently and you'll be able to resolder the can just
>> about as new.
>>
>> -John
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