[volt-nuts] A Fluke 732A: Return it or keep it?

[T. Micallef]

Michael,

I would start with what is the easiest to test. If you look inside the "Reset"
hole and do not see a bare metal contact behind the hole, there is missing
hardware. I can look inside one of mine and I can see it with no problem.
You only need a short piece of stripped wire to touch between the contact
and a grounded binding post. My concern would be is if anything is missing.
The LEDs are on the same board. Do you have a AC PWR LED lit?

So far, I have had three different 732A's that had the 10V outside of the
specified adjustable range. This is not unusual as many components have
aged. Fluke has the A7 board to compensate for this drift. It is not
absolutely imperative that it be adjusted to exactly 10V, but it does matter
if the unit meets its drift and noise specs.

I have had to repair the oven controller, replace all batteries, calibrate
the battery charging voltages, and replace the 10V pot inside two of the
reference ovens. Many different factors can affect the output voltages.
 

I believe the battery charge light only comes on when it is not trickle
charging. If you remove the AC power, will the 732A continue to operate?

Also, silly question, is the battery switch set to the on position? I had to
ask. You should be able to measure the battery charging voltage from the
back of the pack.

Todd