[volt-nuts] Finally got around to modifying my Fluke 845ab with LED's
Chuck Harris
cfharris at erols.com
Thu Sep 11 08:10:55 EDT 2014
I just mentioned UV (which are really near UV/violet) pumped white LED's
for completeness. The UV/violet pumped LED's are the best high CRI LED's
for visual color accuracy... some having CRI's as high as 98.
Some examples are:
<http://www.soraa.com/products/qol-landing>
<http://www.yujiintl.com/high-cri-led-lighting>
In any case, we are drifting pretty far from the OP's topic, and my original
comment about the after glow, and between cycle brightness, of white LED's.
-Chuck Harris
Mark Sims wrote:
> I don't think you will find any white LEDs that are based upon UV LEDs. UV LEDs
> are horribly inefficient. All white LEDs that I know of have a "royal blue" LED
> as their pump. The phosphor is typically a YAG based phosphor. Alsp, the warmer
> white the LED is, the less efficient it is. Same goes for high CRI LEDs. They
> need to enhance the output towards the red end of the spectrum... either using a
> less efficient phosphor configuration and/or filtering out the shorter
> wavelengths. In some high-CRI leds you can see red/colored particles in the
> dome/phosphor that filter down the shorter wavelengths. BTW, those big royal blue
> LEDs are insanely bright and your eye is not even very sensitive/responsive to
> them. You can damage your eyes and not know it. Plus there is an effect known as
> the "blue light hazard." Be particularly careful with "remote phosphor" lighting
> LEDs that have damaged/missing phosphor panels. 10+ watts of royal blue goodness
> can be nasty stuff... but then, I have designed LED lighting systems that put out
> 500,000+ lumens of white light into a rather small area... I'm rather careful
> around bright LEDs. _______________________________________________ volt-nuts
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