[time-nuts] OT: RoHS crap
Rob Kimberley
time.bandit at btinternet.com
Mon Jan 15 21:24:55 UTC 2007
RoHS = yet another wacky EU Directive. Why did we ever join this nonsense??
Rob K - (in UK)
-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces at febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces at febo.com] On
Behalf Of Michael Sokolov
Sent: 15 January 2007 18:52
To: time-nuts at febo.com
Subject: [time-nuts] OT: RoHS crap
Hello time-nuts,
Sorry for the off-topic post, but reading my mail this morning I've seen a
few messages go by on this list about bad solder joints due to the RoHS
stupidity, and I have a question about that.
My interest in the matter is from the perspective of a hobbyist hardware
builder -- of the non-commercial, anarchist, screw-all-f***ing-laws kind.
To me the RoHS problem is really two separate problems, of which only one
really matters:
Part one is the lead-free solder. *I think* this one is easily solved
-- just use normal tin-lead solder in everything I build.
Part two is the lead-free *parts*. This is the real problem. While some
manufacturers still offer both leaded and lead-free parts at least on paper,
in many cases the leaded part is discontinued or much more difficult to
obtain than the lead-free version.
So here are my questions for those who seem to have more experience with
this whole mess than I do:
1. Are the crappy RoHS solder joints due to the lead-free solder or the
lead-free parts? If it's the solder, will using traditional tin-lead
solder give me traditional good solder joints even if the parts are
lead-free, or are we doomed to live with crappy solder joints until
we can raise an army to march on the part factories and force them to
restart the production of leaded parts?
2. What problems should I be on the lookout for when soldering lead-free
parts with the traditional tin-lead solder? Or does this not work
and I would have to use the goddamn lead-free solder if I'm forced to
use lead-free parts?
3. Since I want to use leaded parts whenever I can get them and use
lead-free ones only if there is no choice, I'll have a mix of leaded
and lead-free parts on my boards. I've heard that such mixing gives
problems with reflow soldering because the two melt at different
temperatures. What if I use the traditional tin-lead solder
throughout? Any advice?
TIA a lot for any insight.
MS
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