[time-nuts] HP 5065A rubidium lifetime

Bob Camp lists at rtty.us
Sun Mar 21 04:11:31 UTC 2010


Hi

Works unless you are in a facility where acid flux is outlawed. 

Usually not an issue in the basement :).....

Bob


On Mar 20, 2010, at 11:36 PM, Neville Michie wrote:

> 
> On 21/03/2010, at 11:58 AM, Bob Camp wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> To make the heater work right you need the proper resistance / foot heater wire. Cupron is a pretty typical material if you want to solder to it. Nicrome is fine if you are welding to it.  THe real trick here is to find somebody with a spool of the right stuff and then beg a few feet from them.
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Nichrome, stainless steel, iron, nickel, copper, brass in fact most metals other than aluminium, (zinc is messy) solder very easily with a trace of phosphoric acid as a flux.
> Clean the soldering iron of resin residue, put a trace of phosphoric acid on the wire, and is solders like new copper. The soldering iron and wire are very easily cleaned with water afterwards leaving a tinned nichrome (etc) wire for normal resin cored solder assembly.
> The phosphoric acid may be of any strength as the water boils out to leave a P2O5 paste on the article.
> For large items use a huge soldering iron, paint acid on the cold iron/nickel whathave you and it solders very easily. Do not gently heat an iron article with acid on it as within
> a half minute a protective phosphate coat (like Parkerising) will form to make it impossible to solder.
> It is worth keeping a tiny bottle of phosphoroic acid just for the odd bit of resistance wire or thermo-couple.
> You have to see it to believe it.
> Cheers, Neville Michie
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts at febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
> 





More information about the Time-nuts_lists.febo.com mailing list