[time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo

[Ron Ward]

Hi:
I have two. Both are made by Weller. The first one is rated for 100/140
Watts and works well for disassembling soldered HC-6U crystals without
damaging them. The second one is at least 250 watts maybe as high as 300
Watts. It is old and the label is missing. It has two lamps for
illumination. I feel that if you make the wire tight aginst the solder
area of the case that the 100/140 watt gun would work okay. Be sure to
tin all of the contact area of the wire that is wrapped around the
case's soldered junction. The non-contact area of the wire may be left
to oxidize and will act like an insulator making the tined area hotter.
Fresh rosin core solder is easier to work with. Solder braid is also
very helpful to clean up the groove after the top of the case comes off.
Be sure to ware safety glasses or goggles. Not much solder is released
but I wouldn't take any chances!
Also you might try both #12 and #14 as I don't know the current rating
of your soldering gun. The resistance of going to #12 wire is
compensated by the longer length for larger cases. I have never tried
Chip Quick but it could also be helpful. You could have a friend preheat
the case with a large soldering iron if extra heat is required. I like
the soldering gun because it makes for a nice clean job when finished.
You will want to work fast so as not to heat damage the oscillator's
components.
Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces at febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces at febo.com] On
Behalf Of Ed Palmer
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 8:28 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo

I haven't heard of that trick before, but it sounds interesting.  What's

the wattage of your soldering gun?

Ed


On 7/25/2012 6:41 PM, Ron Ward wrote:
> Hi:
> If you want to de-solder the case, I have had success taking some #12
or
> #14 bare copper wire ( standard solid conductor house-wiring stripped
of
> the PVC insulation ) and wrapping it tightly around the base just
above
> the soldered junction. The wire is installed in my soldering gun just
> like a new soldering gun tip. Add just a little solder to help in heat
> transfer. Be careful as it will get really hot. I hold the top with a
> weird set of very long needle nose pliers. They are small enough that
> they don't act like much of a heatsink. You could fabricate one out of
> wood. They would be disposable.
> I hope this helps,
> Ron
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: time-nuts-bounces at febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces at febo.com]
On
> Behalf Of Paul Flinders
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 2:59 PM
> To: Tom Miller; Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo
>
> On 25/07/12 22:27, Tom Miller wrote:
>> Can you post up a few pictures of the oscillator?
>>
>> There have been people that have opened these up and repaired them.
If
>> you feel not up to it, why not see if someone on this group can help.
>>
>> Repairing it will eliminate a lot of searching.
> Pictures at
>
> http://www.wild-pc.co.uk/images/P1000981.jpg
> http://www.wild-pc.co.uk/images/P1000982.jpg
> http://www.wild-pc.co.uk/images/P1000983.jpg
>
> Apologies for slightly poor quality.
>
> It's fully soldered at the base - possibly wasn't done in one go but I
> suspect would all have to be heated to get it apart - I have an SMD
> style hot air gun but it couldn't tackle that job.
>
> If anyone is able to repair it I'd certainly be interested.
>
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