[time-nuts] Changing FE-5650A frequency?

WB6BNQ wb6bnq at cox.net
Sun Apr 7 20:55:13 UTC 2013


Hi Alec,

I am going to agree with Robert (G8RPI) on his assessment, particularly as the dip switches are clearly visible in one of the pictures.  Although I wonder why Robert feels unfortunate about the [ two chip DDS arrangement ] ?

It matters not the number of chips that make up the DDS.  Why ?  Because the actual physics package and its electronics has nothing to do with the DDS in the older designs.  That is, the signal output of the physics package is a fixed frequency  (around 50.255 MHz) that you could capture and feed to a more modern DDS if necessary as replacement of the old one is probably not going to happen.  However, if it is working then once you get to a frequency you need you probably not touch it again.  So no loss there.

As for calibration, there is a hole on one side of the can that has a multi-turn pot that adjusts the "C-field" current.  The C-field is a very fine frequency adjustment.  You first adjust the C-field pot to its lowest setting (as in frequency), then set the DDS to the closest frequency on downside of where you want to go and then adjust the C-field pot to come up on to the frequency.  The C-field pot is a really fine adjustment, so we are talking very small movement that will require patience, a better reference and at least a
oscilloscope to watch the drift rate over a very long time. A truly time consuming experience.
However, if you leave that C-field pot alone, you will most probably be inside 1 part in 10 to the minus 9th.

The most recent designs have the DDS in the control loop for the physics package.  In the new internal design in order to change frequencies you need to actually change the BASE crystal frequency, the DDS and the firmware to get a new output frequency.  So basically a real pain in the ass.

As for the foam that is sandwiched in between the boards, I agree with Robert that it is for temperature stability in varying environments.  If the unit is kept in a normal room all the time then the foam is not a concern and could be carefully cleaned off.  There is some other components that have white stuff that looks more like an RTV type substance used to hold down a component like what is seen in photograph IMG_20130407_102937.jpg at the two toroids,  That I would leave alone.

Your finding the 12+ MHz just confirms that the design is very similar to that described in the FTP file I provided.  Make sure you record the switch settings before you change them so you can return to a reference point.

Although you did not indicate, I assume you downloaded the FTP file ?  Please let me know so i can reduce the storage level as it is not my site although I have use of it on a short term basis.

Thank you,

Bill....WB6BNQ

Alexander Wright wrote:

> On 07/04/13 17:56, Robert Atkinson wrote:
> > Hi Alex,
> > These units were used as timing references for secure communication systems (Havequick). see ebay item 130832014630. Unfortunatly they are an older design with a two chip DDS. The other problem is that the "M" designation is for military and means they have been partially encapsulated with polyurethene foam. You can cut it away but it is very easy to damage the PCB. Frequency setting is by DIP switches (under the foam) allowing full range of frequency selection. However the output filter is narrow so you can't go far from 800kHz.
> > Did you buy all seven?
> >
> > Robert G8RPI.
> >
> >
> Robert,
> Thanks for the info! I bought one of these wondering what they were,
> took it apart and found the rubidium clock and figured it must be worth
> something (more than the 15 quid he was asking) so I bought the remaining 6!
>
> I've taken the foam off the top PCB and i've found that there's a
> 12.8MHz signal being produced which is then being divided down with an
> 800kHz logic chip. I should imagine the filter must be on the circuit
> board below? I might try changing the frequency
> of the DDS chip, removing the frequency divider and tinkering with the
> output filter. Do you have any info on what sort of filter I should
> expect to find?
>
> Thanks,
> Alec M0TEI
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