[time-nuts] How to open solder-sealed OCXOs?

[Chris Albertson]

I've not opened on of these cans but I have opened some shield audio
transmitters.  I just use my Hakko temperature controlled solder station at
a high setting and work my way around the edge.  It can be done
non-detructivly.  Solder wick helps a lot, use a bunch of it to get rid of
the excess solder.      The tiny tip on a temperature controlled solder
pencil does not look very powerful but the temperer controller will crank
up the watts to whatever is required for the job.   I think mine limits out
at 80W.  So just a normal solder station can work.   It works for both the
muMetal cans and the steel cans


On Sun, Feb 2, 2014 at 8:53 AM, <EWKehren at aol.com> wrote:

> Hi
> I use wire cutters like on a Morion I find a small lip and start pealing it
>  away. No trauma for the OCXO and simple.
> Bert Kehren
>
>
> In a message dated 2/2/2014 10:07:36 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> lists at rtty.us writes:
>
> Hi
>
> If you are tossing the can, a mill is by far the best way  to open up an
> OCXO. That of course assumes you have a mill...
>
> It's not a  chip intensive process. You can easily do it with an X/Y table
> on a drill  press. Of course that assumes you have all of that  stuff....
>
> Bob
>
> On Feb 2, 2014, at 2:37 AM, Stewart Cobb  <stewart.cobb at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > What's the best way to open  an OCXO in the typical solder-sealed tinned
> > steel can?  I don't  mind destroying the can itself, as long as the
> innards
> > are not harmed.  The goal is to run some experiments with thermal
> impedance
> > as  discussed here last week, and to ovenize parts of the EFC controller
> for
> > better stability.
> >
> > Cheers!
> > --Stu
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-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California