[time-nuts] HP E1938

Bruce Griffiths bruce.griffiths at xtra.co.nz
Sun Apr 16 03:11:45 UTC 2017


More precisely the active EFC range is +1.25 to +3.75V with an absolute minimum of 0V and an absolute max of +5V.

At least this is the range that the pseudo differential AD7714 ADC inputs monitoring the EFC are configured for.

Bruce

> On 16 April 2017 at 14:57 Bruce Griffiths <bruce.griffiths at xtra.co.nz> wrote:
> 
> 
>     0 to +5V dc max, however only the 0 to 2.5V range appears measurable by the AD7714 ADC on the PCB.
> 
>     Increasing the EFC voltage decreases the capacitance in series with the crystal requiring an increase in the inductance exhibited by the crystal hence requiring a lower oscillator frequency.
> 
>     Bruce
> 
>         > > 
> >         On 16 April 2017 at 13:01 Larry McDavid <lmcdavid at lmceng.com> wrote:
> > 
> >         The units now available on eBay have various types of D-Subminiature
> >         connectors and can be on either side of the board. I will have to wait
> >         until my unit arrives to see what I get. It should be possible, if
> >         necessary, to remove the connector and replace it with a more convenient
> >         D-Submin connector on the desired side of the board.
> > 
> >         I did not originally note the additional zip'd info available from that
> >         eBay website but now have those files. Thanks for that link.
> > 
> >         So far, I have not seen any spec for the EFC voltage and polarities used
> >         in the "Integrated PWB." Anyone know that?
> > 
> >         The "full instrument" version also available now on eBay is a complete
> >         GPSDO but at $130 plus $80 shipping. I really don't need yet another
> >         GPSDO but would use the integrated PWB assembly for a low ADEV
> >         free-running 10 MHz source. I have a HP 10811D for that now but will
> >         evaluate this new unit for performance.
> > 
> >         Anyone have experience doing this and know the EFC requirements?
> > 
> >         Larry
> > 
> >         On 4/15/2017 4:01 PM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist wrote:
> > 
> >             > > > 
> > >             It's been 20 years, but I will try to recap what I remember
> > >             about this connector. I believe there were 3 customers,
> > >             and one of them required the DB connector with coax inserts
> > >             for reasons of backward compatibility. I think this
> > >             vendor was Motorola. We did not actually use the coax
> > >             inserts, but left them blank and ran the RF, etc on
> > >             ordinary pins. I believe you can make an ordinary male
> > >             DB-25 mate with these insert versions by clipping off some
> > >             of the pins that would be blocked by the female insert
> > >             version. I vaguely remember that the other 2 vendors
> > >             used gender changers or something. There might have
> > >             an issue with the mating plane location being different
> > >             for different customers.
> > > 
> > >             I am sure that time-nuts, being talented at repurposing,
> > >             will be able to think about this problem and come up with
> > >             a simple solution to interfacing with these boards.
> > >             No need to buy insert type connectors. I never had
> > >             any trouble making cables that connected to these units
> > >             using plain vanilla DB25's.
> > > 
> > >             Rick N6RK
> > > 
> > >             On 4/15/2017 10:42 AM, Larry McDavid wrote:
> > > 
> > >                 > > > > 
> > > >                 Ok, so a standard DB 25-pin socket-contact connector will mate with the
> > > >                 on-board connector with the center hole and missing pins. That's good!
> > > > 
> > > >                 I now notice a comment on your webpages about this device in which you
> > > >                 mention a schematic. Do you have a schematic of this board? If so, can
> > > >                 you point to it or send me a copy.
> > > > 
> > > >                 I was unaware of the complete packaged unit on eBay; thanks for that.
> > > > 
> > > >                 Another poster mentioned the wiring of the connector on the full
> > > >                 instrument version power connector; is that pin-out and spec available?
> > > > 
> > > >                 Larry
> > > > 
> > > >                 On 4/15/2017 5:05 AM, Tom Van Baak wrote:
> > > > 
> > > >                     > > > > > 
> > > > >                         > > > > > > 
> > > > > >                         I purchased one of these HP E1938 OCXO recently on eBay but have not
> > > > > >                         yet
> > > > > >                         received it.
> > > > > > 
> > > > > >                         Is that special D-Submin connector a receptacle-shell, pin contact
> > > > > >                         version? Will a standard plug-shell, socket contact 25-pin D-Submin
> > > > > >                         fit it?
> > > > > > 
> > > > > >                     > > > > > 
> > > > >                     Hi,
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     I'll cc the group here since we may get some useful comments.
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     I'm not exactly sure what you mean. The E1938A oscillators that I've
> > > > >                     seen and tested look like this:
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     http://www.leapsecond.com/museum/e1938a/
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     And those can be interfaced with a simple D-sub DB25 connector on the
> > > > >                     PCB. For connections, see that page, or any number of postings about
> > > > >                     the E1938 in the time-nuts archives.
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     Note that on eBay there are at least three variations of E1938A
> > > > >                     oscillator. The item#'s below are just random search picks (I have no
> > > > >                     affiliation with any buyers or sellers) and I also know not all
> > > > >                     surplus refurbished surplus recycled surplus stuff works. But we do
> > > > >                     this because when they did work, they are sometimes totally amazing.
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     1) There's the bare "puck" alone, as in
> > > > >                     http://www.ebay.com/itm/290829077542 -- and I have no idea where one
> > > > >                     would start with that item since all the support circuitry on the PCB
> > > > >                     would have to be re-created by hand.
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     2) There's the integrated PCB assembly, as in
> > > > >                     http://www.ebay.com/itm/181043193416 -- which is more like what I
> > > > >                     tested.
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     3) There's the full instrument version, as in
> > > > >                     http://www.ebay.com/itm/171293069062 -- which is most likely to work,
> > > > >                     or be less hacked up, or dented, or salvaged, or rusted. It even has
> > > > >                     all the connectors and power supplies, and GPS, etc.
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     If any other time nuts have experience with each of these methods to
> > > > >                     obtain a E1938 oscillator, please let us know.
> > > > > 
> > > > >                 > > > > 
> > > >                 _______________________________________________
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> > > >                 and follow the instructions there.
> > > > 
> > > >             > > > 
> > >         > > 
> >         --
> >         Best wishes,
> > 
> >         Larry McDavid W6FUB
> >         Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland)
> > 
> >         _______________________________________________
> >         time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts at febo.com
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> >         and follow the instructions there.
> > 
> >     > 



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