[volt-nuts] Fluke 845AB Null Detector
Alan Scrimgeour
scrimgap at blueyonder.co.uk
Fri Mar 19 17:04:10 UTC 2010
I didn't check the detail because the manual warns not to charge for more
than a week, so I assumed it was just on the high side of a trickle charge
and so ok for NiMH too.
Alan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brooke Clarke" <brooke at pacific.net>
To: "Discussion of precise voltage measurement" <volt-nuts at febo.com>
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Fluke 883AB differential voltmeter
> Hi Alan:
>
> If the factory battery was Ni-Cad it's a mistake to replace it with Ni-MH.
> During charging they are very different and the Ni-MH might overheat. Is
> there a temperature sensor as part of the charging electronics?
>
> Have Fun,
>
> Brooke Clarke
> http://www.PRC68.com
>
>
> Alan Scrimgeour wrote:
>> I also recently restored a Fluke 845AB Null Detector. I used cheap
>> Nickel Metal Hydride batteries to replace the originals, but I was
>> tempted by the improving capacities of Low Self Discharge NiMH batteries:
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low_self-discharge_NiMH_battery
>>
>> The repair seemed to work very well, but a fault quickly developed: when
>> switched to 'LINE OPR' (mains powered) the meter swings to the extremes
>> and then settles to zero and won't move again as though it's switched
>> off. I'm too busy to deal with that right now, but I was wondering, how
>> much noise should I expect to see in the meter needle with the input
>> shorted?
>>
>> Alan
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Sims" <holrum at hotmail.com>
>> To: <volt-nuts at febo.com>
>> Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 1:04 AM
>> Subject: [volt-nuts] Fluke 883AB differential voltmeter
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I just finished restoring a Fluke 883AB differential voltmeter (and a
>>> 845AB null voltmeter).
>>>
>>> The 883 AB needed new battery packs (I used 4 x nine AA cell nicad packs
>>> and a 4 subC cell pack)... remarkably cheap from a Ebay vendor. The
>>> original 9.6V packs used an unobtainium coin cell and would have cost
>>> around $200 to replace). Also the power supply for the AC input
>>> converter was fried (transistor, zener, cap).
>>>
>>> Final problem was it would not zero properly. The zero circuit uses two
>>> diodes to make a +/- 0.6V supply driving the offset pot. The unit was
>>> offset so that you could not reach zero and the offset pot had fairly
>>> little range. Adjusting the chopper didn't help. I replaced the diodes
>>> with three 1.2V reference chips (making a -1.2 to +2.4V supply). This
>>> centered the zero adjustment and gave better range.
>>>
>>> Adjusting the KVD is a pain... you have to unsolder/solder various
>>> jumpers, etc. Anyway, it now seems to be working better than new.
>>>
>>> Now to the Fluke 515A calibrators. They have two 18 (AAA?) cell packs.
>>> Replacements can be had for $175... I think I can do better (or will do
>>> without).
>>>
>>> I also have a Space Labs digital igniter tester (basically a Kelvin ohm
>>> meter). Uses a 6 cell NiMH coin cell pack built into a piece of PVC
>>> pipe. One place wanted $600 for the replacement! Since the unit only
>>> draws 11 ma while you hold the test button, I replaced it with a 9V
>>> smoke alarm battery / diode to block charging. Should last forever (and
>>> not self discharge in a month)
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>>
>>
>>
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>
>
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